
On Monday I visited north of Kabul - the area called Shamali - it was the area where the Taliban had practiced their scorched earth policy and where many villagers were killed. We drove an hour or so in the back of a sturdy Landover.
It was good to see local people have returned and are starting to rebuild their lives - It had snowed the night before so it looked stunningly beautiful. We were in a village at 3,300 metres (started at around 1700 so a bit of a romp - nice to get out in to the open air, clean and fresh). Our local partner has been running a disaster preparedness programme, which includes teaching about earthquakes and flooding terrorism, war and how to survive. In addition there is a more basic programme of disease prevention through building simple toilet constructions - they provide some material (£50s worth) and the villages construct them. Good co-operation.
The villagers were very friendly and pleased to see us. It was Ramazan, but they wanted to give tea - which we declined, but they insisted we took an apple each for the journey. Wonderful hospitality from people so poor.
On the way we saw a mine at the side of the road, a foot or so from the wheel of the Landover, we took photos and took a reading on the GPS (Global Placement Satellite) and decided that on the way back we would mark the spot with stones and let de-mining know. So as we were returning a villager with us, bent down said 'that's not a mine and nonchalantly picked it up and threw it away!!' It was casing of some kind from a shell, but looked very authentic buried in the ground. It caused a bit of a laugh anyway.
There was a nasty shooting incident in Ghazni - a UN French lady shot and killed - just 29 years old and much respected locally. Apparently over 1000 vehicles followed the vehicle carrying the body back to Kabul as a sign of respect for the work of the International Community and disgust at the brutal killing - in Pushtoon culture, you DO NOT kill women - It is very much against ‘Puktoonwali’ - the cultural value system).
The UN are pulling out of the south, but continuing their work overall. It is yet another 'security incident' here in a yet unstable but ever hopeful Afghanistan.
From your own correspondent
November 2003














In 2003, we stayed in the Imperial quarter of the city, in a cheap hotel overflowing with Iranians and Russians. This year it was in some back streets nearer the Hagai Sophia, more in the heart of Istanbul. It was the haunt of Dutch and Germans. Friends of ours, who we met up with for a Turkish kebab meal were able to show us the ideal location - a cheap comfortable hotel with views of the Haggai Sophia and the Blue Mosque from the bedroom window -stunning lit up at night.








I was able to attend the Graduation at the end of my visit - a moving affair, opened by children of New Beginnings School singing the National anthem. Kazak and Kyrgyz dancers also preceded the presentations of graduation certificates to various groups. The women’s rehab, refuge and workers. Boy’s and Men’s rehab and workers. TEFL teachers. And more Kazak songs - around 90 people receiving certificates Presided over by Doug with Baroness Cox as the chief guest, brought by Sam, an Iranian from Surrey. She was in Kazakhstan to make representation on behalf of Teen challenge to the President wife and the Mayor of Almaty concerning 3 buildings. Teen Challenge was fighting a court case over the 3 buildings.













