Sitting at a riverside cafe ‘The Blue Barjeel’ . Its 33.4 Centigrade according to my newly acquired Casio dual time watch (my imitation Rolex purchased in Islamabad has broken again!) Its 10pm and I’ve just crossed over by Abra water taxi from Al Sabka to Dubai Old Souk on the other side of the Creek.
I’m in Dubai on a stopover from London to Seoul. I had a few hours to kill so I’ve left the airport and have been shopping.
I’m in Dubai on a stopover from London to Seoul. I had a few hours to kill so I’ve left the airport and have been shopping.
I also love wandering along the Creek (by the two Rolex Towers) looking at the boats - mainly Dhows in various shapes and sizes from Iran India Pakistan, Yemen - with names like MSV Alisha, Araral Balaji, Shere Nasav MSV, Al Hussein. Goods piled high ready for loading - white bales of anonymous materials, used Toyota Cars (also white), Tins of vegetable oil, Cartons of Alsinsa Cola, Boxes of Rocket Batteries. Pandano Cranes and Sumitamo Forklifts parked in readiness for the early morning shift.
Michael Palin travelled on one of these when he made the film travelling ‘Around the world in 80 days’ and Gavin Young in his book ‘Slow Boats to China’ Maybe, just one day.....
It feels good to be back in the region again, drinking or rather sipping Arabic coffee (although the menu surprisingly called it Turkish coffee - especially since the owner is a Syrian from Damascus)
I enjoy just getting out of the Airport and feeling the temperature, walking, talking to people (Urdu gets you a long way in this part of the world especially with Taxi drivers and shopkeepers). I’m tired , thirsty and sweaty. Its noisy, lots of traffic, people walking up and down clutching their plastic shoppers and plastic bottled water. There is a gentle breeze from the water.
A constant stream of people board the Abras crossing over from the Bur Dubai Abra station and occasional bigger Restaurant boats cut across their bows. All brightly lit up, coloured lights painting pastel patterns on the water’s face. At this time of night the water’s as black as the dregs of my Arabic coffee.
On the opposite bank is the St George Hotel, blue neon lights highly visible. Strange that a Saint should be so brazen in this part of the world. Maybe its a sign! He originates from the Levant - I came across him in Lod (currently in Israel) and was shown around one of the many churches dedicated to his name. They insisted he came from there. He is certainly well known in the Middle East.
But the Dragon to be slain here is not made of hide and blood and yet it still hoards gold and all that glitters. Dubai is full of blatant commercialism.. Dubai is one big shopping Mall - an edifice to Mammon. Consumerism gone mad. All bright lights and endless energy. So strange to have a free port in such a Muslim enclave.The International airport - home to modern dragons made by Airbus and Boeing - reflects this in its slogan: ‘Fly Buy Dubai’
